Charlottetown, PEI

I wonder if kids who go to school in Charlottetown are better versed in the history of Canadian Confederation than kids in other parts of the country. I've spent the past three days in this charming city and have been reminded in detail about their role in the birth of what we know of as Canada on just about every street.

The story goes that back in 1864 Charlottetown hosted a conference which was meant to develop the idea of Maritime unity among PEI, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Then George Etienne Cartier from Lower Canada (Quebec) and John A Macdonald from Upper Canada (Ontario) also showed up to join the party and managed to change the debate to one of Canadian unity. After a week of luncheons, meetings, dinners and balls at which apparently a lot of champagne and fresh seafood was consumed, the idea of Confederation was agreed upon. Three years and two more conferences later, one in Quebec City and the final one in London, England, which got the Queen's approval, and Canada officially became the Dominion of Canada. July 1, 1867.

Charlottetown gives itself the moniker of the “Birthplace of Canada” because of this first event; somehow fitting that the idea of Canada was born out of a week of non-stop parties. Gives a bit of insight into the national character, eh.

There is a Confederation Museum and souvenir shop in Founders Hall, an old train building on the picturesque waterfront ,which is kinda cheesy but lays out the details of the story; it then goes on to describe how the Northwest Territories, which included the north and also extended as far west as BC from Ontario, were bought from the Hudson's Bay Co; how Reil led the rebellion in Red River, now better known as Winnipeg, defending those who, many of whom were Metis, were rather unwillingly sold in the deal, and as a result created Manitoba; how BC bargained for the railway; how Alberta and Saskatchewan were formed and lured European settlers to farm the lands; how the Klondike gold rush of Yukon attracted people from all over; about Newfoundland's rather reluctant entrance after World War II; and finally Nunavut's recent formation. Quite a fascinating story, actually. Don't know why I wasn't utterly captivated when I was learning it at about age 14 in school.

There's the Confederation Bridge that I drove over from New Brunswick; the Confederation trail, the bike trail that spans the island and on which yesterday I found myself on a path that diverged in the woods (I am beginning to wonder if Mr. Frost ever visited PEI...); a Confederation Mall and plenty of Confederation themed souvenirs and nicknacks. Every night until the end of October in the centre of old Charlottetown there's a sound and light show beamed onto the facade of the Provincial House, the spot where many of the meetings from the first conference took place and the only photograph to document the event was staged, also detailing the story peppered with reasons why PEI is so great. In town, there's a bench on the sidewalk with a statue of John A. that one can sit beside and pose as if engaged in a conversation or a cuddle with our esteemed first Prime Minister. Hmmm, I'm not sure, but I'd hazard a guess that PEI is fairly proud of their role as the hosts to the conference that breathed life into the idea of Confederation. Despite their not joining themselves because they didn't think it would suit them until many years later, interestingly enough, when it became apparent that Canada was just getting to be too much of a giant to resist.

Autumn is a little later arriving here, I've noticed. The air feels calm enough and many cafes still have thriving outdoor patios; its a bit cool, but the trees are only just beginning to turn their colours. There's still a lot of green out there at the moment. The drive into Charlottetown had me stopping at pretty lighthouses, The Great Canadian Soap Company selling their homemade, organic, goat's milk soaps and creams, complete with an opportunity to feed the goats, and totally irresistible pumpkin-and-potato stalls along the side of the road. I'm now cooking potatoes every night in the Jamboree for supper, and I have two perfectly orange little pumpkins decorating the interior.

Thankfully, its not only Confederation for the Tourists here; Charlottetown is also a humming little city with normal things going on. A good choice of restaurants to dine on oysters, lobster, haddock and mussels and sip wine. Live music in pubs and on stages erected on the street. The requisite Starbucks on the corner, and wide choice of pubs from which to gulp Atlantic beers. Which I did last night; no matter where in the world I've been, my tried-and-true method of meeting people and engaging in conversations when I feel the want for company when travelling alone is to head to the nearest Irish pub, grab a seat at the bar, and pass the evening in the company of those who are there. I sit and read a book, chat with my neighbours, and now that I'm carrying on this tradition here in Canada, and now that hockey season has started, I can keep up for the first time in twelve years with who's playing who, who's been traded and for how much, and who's winning and losing!

Road to Charlottown